By Bruce Jay
June 10, 2008
Too many tourists travel to Maragogi in the state of Alagoas and don't see the tens of kilometers of unspoiled beaches and the spectacular reefs that protect the state's second most frequented tourist destination. Daily, hundreds come off buses on excursions and board one of the fifteen large sightseeing catamarans to visit the tropical pools at what is called the Galés. Looking to their right and left, I am sure that some catch a glimpse of what they are missing and wonder. The beach, lagoon and the reef are a large eco system waiting to be explored. Maragogi is the gateway to the 130 kilometers of beaches and reefs of the region known as the Coral Coast - A Costa dos Corais.
Visit Maragogi and the Coral Coast while it's still being discovered. Maragogi, Alagoas is this region's gateway since it has a good infrastructure with great variety of resorts, hotels, inns and guest houses as well as a lively downtown water front. The city is only two hours on paved highway from both Recife and Maceio. Stretching north and south from Maragogi's urban core are vast stretches of almost deserted beaches, many with easy access to a uniquely welcoming reef. These unspoiled beaches are dotted with some of the most charming pousadas or inns in Brazil. These are located in a cluster of closely knit municipalities along the northern coast of the state of Alagoas and include, besides Maragogi, the towns of Japaratinga, Porto de Pedras, São Miguel dos Milagres, Passo de Camaragibe and Barra de Santo Antonio.
The beaches and reefs of Maragogi alone extend for 22 kilometers. Just north from the city center, except for the few small villages inhabited by fishermen and summer homes, or where small streams flow into the sea, the beaches with crystal clear waters are one long, hard packed walking path perfect for strolling and shelling. Depending on the tide, time of day and the cloud cover, the ever changing views and colors of the lagoon make each day's experience different from the last. Overall, my most spectacular memories of these beaches are when the sun raises, painting colors in the sky over the reef, bringing light to new adventures.
 If you are lucky, you will be able to visit at the full or the new moon, when the tides are at their lowest. Then, at the points like those known by locals as Antunes and Xareu, it is possible to walk two kilometers out to the reef with water just above your ankles in what normally is well over one's head. At most any low tide, after a short boat ride or jangada sail, a visitor has the chance to go reef combing and visit the many transparent tropical pools with just the precaution of wearing some protective footwear, such as beach or tennis shoes.
For the adventurous, the most deserted beaches close to Maragogi are Burgalhão, just to the north of the waterfront, and the afore mentioned Antunes and Xaréu. Depending on where you are staying, you have the choice of going on little microbuses or "combies" that run up and down the paved road (AL-101) on the outskirts of the city center. Just tell them the name of the beach you want to see. They'll be able to drop you off at the right spot. This transport is very inexpensive so bring loose change!
These same "combies" along with some regularly scheduled buses will also take you further south to the other cities that make up the Coral Coast for even greater adventures. Renting a car for a day excursion is another option. Driving allows one to follow the route that hugs the sea through Japaratinga's Barreira de Bucarão to the ferry that takes you across the Manguaba River to Porto de Pedras and beyond. It is well worth it. This trip is never the same no matter how many times I do it. Stop for lunch at the simple restaurants along the shore or travel on to one of the Pousadas de Charme between Porto de Pedras and São Miguel dos Milagres to experience their epicurean delights and their excellent pristine beaches. Just beyond the village of Janparatinga, I recommend Dona Mara's Caiuia Estalagem for great food in very comfortable surroundings. But, other great choices abound. See below for additional information.
Local arts and crafts of coconut, wood, or straw from banana trees as well as shells can be found along all these routes and along the water front of Maragogi. Much of it is unique to the region. For those that want a break from the beach, there are side trips into the hinterland. The most notable adventure is the Visgueiro Tree - Ecological trail that is supported by the agricultural coop Coopeagro in Maragogi.
Brazil is filled with great beaches, but few have the combination of reefs, lagoon and kilometers of pristine sands of the Coral Coast. Come take a dip.
For more information consult the site Maragogi.com or brazilbeachbum@yahoo.com.
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